PARIS (AP) — Rarely does the demure Paris couture week see a standing ovation.
Even rarer is the whooping and screaming that echoed around the gilded salons of the Hotel Salomon de Rothschild as Pierpaolo Piccioli took his bow following Valentino’s collection Wednesday evening.
Mika, Valentino Garavani, Natalia Vodianova and Tracee Ellis Ross all got to their feet as the rousing operatic voice of Maria Callas played out the sumptuous creations from what was the week’s strongest collection.
Here are some highlights of the last day of haute couture week fall-winter displays.
With the stirring aria of “Casta Diva,” the couture seemed to take as its starting point the glory days of the height of legend Callas’ career in the 1960s.
Giant brushed-back wig hair and an unstructured celadon blue silk gown with intricate intarsia cape opened the 63-look show in that era’s exaggerated style. It took 1,120 hours to make.
Large round multicolored floral headpieces continued the retro feel.
Loose, exaggerated plays on proportion then followed.
Gargantuan scarf-wraps surrounded the body — and one, in vermilion, came actually attached across the bust.
Bows at the collar in mikado, one in fluorescent yellow, were so big they finished at the hip.
Despite the size, the looks were never over-theatrical as Piccioli ensured to keep the proportions balanced from top to bottom, and in keeping with the models’ body size.
One floor-sweeping triangular feather dress could have been overpowering, but was modelled on 5ft 10 inch model Kaia Gerber, Cindy Crawford’s daughter, with huge va-va-voom hair.
It was archetypal dramatic couture.
GAULTIER’S ODE TO SMOKING
A tardy Naomi Campbell triggered a dangerous media scrum as she entered Jean-Paul Gaultier.
It raised the heat in the already scorching atmosphere as sweating fashionistas fanned themselves with Gaultier-branded fans.
It’s been banned in public — but smoking, the theme of the fall-winter couture, has evidently not been outlawed as a source of fashion inspiration.
The unusual homage by Gaultier to one of the world’s dirtiest, and most glamorous, habits made for a typically tongue-in-cheek collection of 73 varied looks.
A black tuxedo jacket had the words “Gaultier Smoking” emblazoned on the front.
It was a play on words on the French translation of “tuxedo,” ″le smoking” — and one that continued in myriad black and white deconstructions of tuxedo looks.
A surreal variation on the red Fez hat from Morocco — a country famed for its shisha pipes — also made an appearance. It covered the face, and from eye slits, the red tassels seemed to hang down like tears.
Tulle mouth masks followed white plume boas representing plumes of smoke.
But the final creation — a giant silver bridal veil — was the most creative look. Its shimmering, five-meter (16-foot) train was so diaphanous, it licked the air and evoked rising smoke.
Pedro Almodovar’s muse, actress Rossy de Palma, applauded from the front row.
ELIE SAAB’S GAUDI
Elie Saab took his itinerant couture inspiration to Barcelona this season.
The famed Modernist architecture of Antoni Gaudi — and its organic lines — were the focus of many of the Lebanese designer’s gowns.
Oversize rounded shoulders, which were sometimes dramatically raised from the body, were a new silhouette variation on the house’s bread-and-butter cinched waist looks.
The industrious Saab couture atelier had got to work to weave the signature crystals, sequins and pearls together to — as the program notes put it — depict “the sinuosity of organic forms.”
The swirling stone reliefs of the Musee des Arts Decoratifs venue, inside the Louvre palace, accentuated the clothes’ architectural lines.
PARIS FASHION GETS TOUGHER ON PRESS
Certain Paris Fashion Week houses pride themselves on careful image control and restrictive press access.
As privately held brands, this is their right — although it can sometimes be excessive and lead to accusations of elitism.
Invitations are sent to carefully selected journalists and buyers, and some houses prefer smaller venues. The system is thought to increase the mystery and cachet of the clothes.
Like Balenciaga, Maison Margiela under John Galliano is one of many with a highly strict policy.
For the second season Maison Margiela extended their media clampdown to all photographic outlets, bar two, sending out a note explaining they would be handling the photography mainly “in-house” for Wednesday’s morning show.
The unusual move means that almost all images of the couture are now under the direct control of the Maison Margiela house.
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9 Bills You Should Never Put on Autopay
We can all use a simpler, more efficient way to manage expenses and save money. Putting your bills on autopay can ensure never forgetting a due date, which minimizes the risk of late fees and dings on your credit report. But although automatic payments can save time and streamline your personal finances, it isn't the right choice for every expense. Autopay is ideal for payments that don't fluctuate every month, such as your mortgage and car payments. You know what to expect from these bills every month, so it's easier to plan and budget for automatic drafts. This isn't the case with monthly expenses that fluctuate.
If you have an unlimited cellphone plan and your bill never varies, autopay is a time-saving strategy for managing payments. There's also the option of setting up automatic payments for a non-unlimited cellphone plan. The problem, however, is that the amount you owe can change from month to month, depending on data usage. And if you forget to read your cellphone statement in months that you owe more than usual, the extra funds taken from your bank account could trigger an overdraft and bank fees. Some cellphone plans also don't have the same billing date each month. While you might have a set date — say the 15th — others have a monthly cycle that varies depending on the number of days the month. That doesn't guarantee a consistent payment date each month, and you could be caught off guard — and out of funds — if a payment posts when you weren't expecting it. Since autopay is a hands-off approach to paying bills, you're also less likely to inspect your cellphone bill after setting up automatic payments. That means you might not catch billing errors and will pay more than necessary.
Unless you're on a budget plan through your utility company — which lets you pay a set amount every month — your water, gas and electric bills also will fluctuate every month. Therefore, it's generally safer not to set utility bills on autopilot. Initiating one-time payments every month involves signing into your accounts. In this case, you're more likely to review statements before making a payment. And when you regularly review your statements, it's easier to identify unusual price increases. For example, a higher water bill can indicate a water leak in your house. If you set up auto-draft for this bill and never review your statements, a leak might go unnoticed for months and cause extensive damage to your home — and your wallet.
A gym membership helps you get into shape and lose excess pounds. But you could lose more than that. If you're committed to visiting the gym regularly, putting the monthly membership fee on autopay is a good idea. But despite your intentions, your actual time spent at the gym could be far less than anticipated — to the point where it no longer makes sense to pay for a membership. With autopay, some bills become out of sight and out of mind. As a result, there's a risk of losing track of money being drafted from your account. Or, you become so accustomed to paying certain expenses that you fall into a rut of paying for a membership you never use. On the other hand, if you pay monthly, you're more likely to evaluate your gym usage occasionally and cancel the membership if you're not using it.
Cable and Satellite Service
Your cable and satellite bills can vary, especially if you watch a lot of movies on demand. With your cable bill automated and funds taken from your bank account, you might never monitor the amount you spend on extra services. Cable and satellite companies also seem to increase their rates every year and include fees for new offerings, such as regional sports networks, that you don't watch. Paying the traditional way, by check or by making a one-time payment online, gives you the chance to review your bill for price increases and all the options you might not be using. Evaluating your cable or satellite bill also will let you know when all those promotional offers you signed up for have expired. It also could motivate you to call the company and ask to renegotiate your services.
Streaming Video Services
Streaming services such as Netflix and Hulu are convenient because you can watch whatever you want, whenever you want. But think twice before signing up for these services. If you have cable, some of the shows and movies offered by streaming services are also available through your cable provider on demand. If you get used to streaming fees coming out of your bank account or being charged to your credit card every month, you might pay these fees month after month without considering whether you need the services. When you sign up for streaming but don't take full advantage of the service, you're essentially flushing money down the toilet.
Music services such as Spotify and Apple Music allow you to stream just about any song from any artist. The downside is that you have to provide a credit card or bank account number before accessing songs. The music service automatically charges the monthly fee to your account. Streaming music is a fun luxury, but only if you're getting your money's worth. If your usage drops and you stream less music (or you stop streaming altogether), the company continues to draft your account until you cancel your subscription. If you forget to cancel, you end up paying for a service you don't use anymore.
Several beauty brands promote beauty box subscriptions, where subscribers receive a box of products each month to sample at home. This is a smart marketing tactic for cosmetic companies, and it's an easy way for you to experiment with different beauty brands before paying the full retail price. Since these subscriptions are relatively inexpensive — typically starting as low as $10 a month — it can seem like a minor monthly expense. But the cost of a beauty box subscription adds up over the year. If you set up automatic payments for this subscription, you might neglect to break down the cost and calculate its value. You might spend more than $100 annually, yet only use a small percentage of the items in your boxes.
If you prefer reading the news over watching it, subscribing to a print or digital edition of a newspaper puts the latest headlines at your fingertips. Some newspapers give subscribers the option of automatic payments. This isn't a bad deal if you read your subscription. But, of course, life can become hectic at a moment's notice. And if you get busy and pile the newspapers in the corner without reading them, you'll waste money paying for a subscription you don't use. On the other hand, if you schedule one-time payments every month, you're more likely to cancel the subscription once you're no longer benefiting from the service.
If you have subscriptions or services that renew once a year, don't set up automatic payments for these expenses. Even if you're an organized person with an outstanding memory and a knack for writing everything on the calendar, annual expenses can catch you off guard. Since you don't think about these bills on a regular basis, you might fail to remember the next due date, especially if you don't receive a reminder. When annual subscriptions auto-renew, you give the company or retailer permission to automatically charge your credit card or draft funds from your bank account on the next payment due date. If you don't prepare for this expense, the company could draft your bank account when you don't have enough funds in the account and cause an overdraft fee.
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A guide to buying less, shopping better and transforming your look in the process